My school holds graduation at Rodef Shalom every year.
Being the crazy person she is, my mother arrived two hours before the ceremony to reserve seats for the ten people (my sister, Kathy, from Florida, dad, a few darling neighbors (Lori, Zev andPaula) and friends (Arlan and Bunny)) who cheered me on throughout the ceremony. It was lovely. The teachers entered the main hall in robes of forest green with colored scarves in a very Harry Potter-like procession and the Seniors, clad in cap and gown, followed closely behind. It was sad for me to be amongst my teachers for the last time and to realize college is fast approaching.
Our speaker was Charlie Rose, and boy, can he deliver a speech. His graduation sentiments were delivered in a calming voice that had a slight Southern drawl. His energy captivated everyone and thankfully engaged the audience for the entirety of his speech. I am glad we had an exceptional speaker.
The ceremony lasted an hour and a half and was followed by strawberries and cookies downstairs for people to say goodbye to friends, teachers and take pictures with family. Our troupe shmoozed and then ran (well hurried because one of my neighbors was on crutches) to get a cab and to venture for lunch at Aquavit!!
My parents thought it would be a nice gesture for me to return to the restaurant that honored me with an internship and where I had so many lovely memories working in the kitchen.
We divided amongst three cabs, arrived at the same time and proceeded, past the cafe, to the main dining room. The architecture is simple, modern and sparse. The warm yellow glow of the bar area, that connects the cafe/front entrance to the main dining room, is architecturally spectacular. Leather egg chairs are enveloped by earthy tones of light which absorb into a wooden ceiling sculpted as rolling waves. The bar area leads to the main dining room, where an oval table with high back leather chairs, probably taken from a set of Star Trek, was laid out with modern flatware and accompanied by a small bouquet of purple flowers.
No sooner had our watier greeted us than my mother asked Chef to appear before we ordered. Executive Chef Johan Svensson guided me through the Aquavit kitchen when I worked as an intern last year. He was kind and I always admired him for his calm demeanor; I was thankful he delegated the kitchen without raising his voice. We both posed for pictures, he marveled that I was graduating, and we reminisced for a few moments before he dashed back into the kitchen for lunch service.
We were nine people, seated near the kitchen door, but still comfortably sectioned off from the rest of the tables in the dining room, which was probably for the best because we were a raucous crowd. After a tearful toast by the parents and neighbors we all ordered two Flights of Three ($17), three choice flavors of imported Aquavits. Aquavit is similar to vodka, also distilled from wheat and potatoes, but experiences a much longer distillation period and infused with seasonings of fruit and herbs. The combinations are endless and we ordered six for the table!
In a frenzied rush to try each flavor, small shot glasses passed hand to hand. A round of continuous sipping and tasting lasted until everyone had tried all the flavors, not to mention until they all felt a little woozy :) A favorite of the table was the Fig and Toasted Cardamon.
The spice had a strong aroma but the taste was sweet with the sharp kick of vodka and roasted spice on the swallow down. Other flavors included; Pear, Vanilla and Black Pepper; Blueberry and Elderflower; Lychee and Orange Blossom; and Mango, Lime and Chili Pepper. If you are a spice fanatic, the last flavor is for you. The initial taste is light and refreshing and the swallow down is a deep infused burn of chili, that is just what spice manics love.My parents let the guests have free range of the menu. Things were ordered two fold, and dishes circled the table, forks were flying, and everyone used bread plates for extra food space. It was all delicious and oh so Scandinavian.
When I was working in the kitchen as an intern, I remember using a mandolin for the apple skin on the Lobster Roll ($18). The thin sheets of apple are pickled and used to wrap chunks of creamy lobster into a roll topped with trout roe, and bacon pieces.
Tender lobster plays with the sweet smooth skin of the apple and the salmon roe provides a burst of salt that enhance the creaminess of the aioli and lobster.This dish was served in half portions to interns joining the kitchen for the first time who ate amongst steal shelves of the appetizer station, licking the plate clean of the lemon aioli.The vibrant orange of the house cured Gravlax ($15) dared me to sneak a piece from Paula's plate. By the time it reached me, the initial presentation had been massacred by poking forks of other eaters.
Served with cubed and halved fingerling potatoes, the creamy fish was smooth to swallow, tender, buttery and enhanced by a slather of spicy espresso mustard sauce and the crunch of fried potato moons.My absolute favorites were the Herring Sampler ($12) and Foie Gras Ganache ($16). I love foie gras! I bypass the banter of PETA and animal activists to order it, especially hot, any chance I get. So on this menu, the Foie Gras is molten, but solid. Creamy, but liquid. It is a taste experience I replay over and over again. I can only show this wonder to you after it had been sopped up by bread, stabbed with a fork, ooed and ahed over by three other eaters, who equally enjoyed this dish.
That oozing form towards the bottom is molten foie gras....hot liquid that issues forth from a soft shell of more foie gras. Atop the pastrami-spiced duck is kumquat and Asian pear chutney, along with a dollop of mango sorbet. Flavors on the whole, enhance the creaminess and smoked, salty flavor of the pastrami. Definitely order this and experience it for yourself.The picture of the herring sampler provided does not do justice to the intricate flavors and delicate tastes of their herrings. Most often I do not like herring, but Aquavit prepares it exceptionally well and covers an array of flavors. The top left is a Curry, Apple, Chive combination whose bold curry is countered by a hum of sweet from small apple cubes.
A refreshing Vodka Lime with Salmon Roe is pictured on the top right. It is neighbored by a Matjes, Red Onion and Sour Cream sample, sweet from the wine and red onion and paired nicely with a dollop of cream. The last sample was the fishiest, topped with black pepper and I think pickled horseradish. All in all an outstanding dish.The Fried Soft Shell Crab ($15) surrounded by a curried Remoulade with carrot bits, enhanced the butter-fried taste of the thin and crispy batter.
There is plenty of soft crab meat behind the veil of crunch, and I continuously dipped the morsel into the sauce, along with leaves of a spicy watercress salad. Simple, delicate and gone in a few bites.Three orders of the Braised Short Ribs ($18) made the rounds. This dish was like the decor, simple and properly done. I was not excited nor dissatisfied. Seared on all sides the meat is served atop an English pea puree, nettles, ramps and morels.
The puree is similar to sea foam and provides a sweet aftertaste to the earthy marinated meat and slice of morel.In between appetizer and entree courses we received another dish, compliments of the chef :). Our waiter brought out huge bowls filled with mini cubes of ice. Embedded among the vast bowl was a small plate that had a rectangle of yellow fin tuna tartar. It was no bigger than my index finger.
Such a large bowl for such a tiny morsel? All the same, the tartar mixed with pine nuts and avocado was fresh and light. On top was a crispy, thin brioche slice and cilantro sprouts. The avocado made a bite creamy, while lime and cilantro worked at the back of my throat to conjure a hint of heat. Yay for a free course!Onto entrees!
My dad ordered hearty and traditional Swedish Meatballs ($20). The meat was well seasoned and tasty, but not a dish to rave over.
Served with puffs of mashed potatoes, hearty cream sauce, it was satisfying and tangy when tasted with lingonberry sauce.Bunny, our family friend from Philadelphia, ordered the Seared Skate ($21). She portioned a lightly crusted piece onto my bread plate.
The translucent flake was moist, tender and slightly crunchy from the light breading that absorbed the lemon butter sauce. Pea shoots and Spring peas were a nice pairing to the bright taste of the sea.
Paula, my neighbor and my half sister Kathy, (who made the trip for my graduation from Florida!) both ordered the Rare Tuna and Scallops ($27).
Salt sprinkled over the pink eye of rare tuna adds an intense flavor to the outer coating of Miso and Cumin, whose smoky heat contrasts nicely to the sweet puree of English pea and buttery flavor of baby asparagus splayed on the plate. That run on was needed..it's so yummy! The scallops were very tender, sauteed in butter and delicious. I ordered the Hot- Smoked Arctic Char ($26), whose pinkish orange hues bounced off of a huge, white porcelain bowl that focused my attention. Our waiter then arrived with a tea kettle, and delicately poured a steaming green apple and horseradish consomme into my bowl, that enveloped the smoked fillet in a pool of gold.
Beneath the fish was a dollop of crème fraîche whose tangy cream mixed with the broth and intensified the sweet, but biting liquid. Topped with silky enoki mushrooms, the fish flaked with a slight pressure from my fork and my mouth was taken over by the supple texture of the flesh.Ordering dessert is the most strenuous. If we could, every person at the table would have ordered the whole dessert menu. After a long period of deliberation, we narrowed it down to two choices.
My mother has a love affair with the Arctic Circle ($12). She speared into the velvety goat cheese parfait to dig out the tart, passion fruit curd trapped inside, before I could snap a pic.
Just for the heck of it, even though we didn't order it, our waiter brought us a taste of the Apple Lingonberry Bread Pudding. The bread combined with lingonberries was dense, thankfully not dry, and sprinkled with powdered sugar.
A lingonberry vodka reduction zigged zagged underneath a curiously delicious scoop of Cardamon ice cream. I liked the ice cream better than the pudding and enjoyed many spiced spoonfuls.
The very dark outer crust of this Chocolate Hazelnut Tart encircled a rich dark chocolate ganache that was set on a layer of chopped hazelnuts and Carmel. Also on the plate, spheres of sweet, caramelized banana and crunchy hazelnuts were circled by dark chocolate rings alongside a scoop of salted caramel ice cream, whose melted liquid soaked into the base of the tart and caused me to furiously spoon the complex flavors into my watering mouth. I love dark chocolate and the shavings of salt only intensified the bold flavors of Carmel and cacao.Thoroughly stuffed after our four hour luncheon, we retrieved Chef Johan from a busy lunch service. He beamed at our smiling faces and gave a slight blush as we thanked him. I want to thank my friends and family for their love and kindness that only heightened the delicious Scandanavian fare. I want to thank the restaurant for allowing me to experience the labor and flavors of the kitchen that vaulted my tastes and vision of the culinary world. This afternoon will never be forgotten and I thank my parents for the seventeen years they have loved and provided for me.
Hope you enjoyed reading! :)
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